Above, Elizabeth Haug on her 25 year-old Icelandic, Gletta, rides the Valley hills in a smooth, distinctly Icelandic, "tolt" gait.

Above, Solvang attorney John Parke on his Icelandic, Skjoldur, as they capture a second place finish in the grueling 2,000 mile Pony Express Race.

Susan Green with Tommi, who's ultra-thick coat is "trace-clopped" to allow easier cooling after a ride.

Hooves flying, a multicolored herd of small shaggy horses careens down the hills of a sprawling ranch near the freeway in Buellton. They look like a bunch of exuberant young children just let out of school. These sturdy creatures are Icelandic Horses, the purebred descendants of a breed first brought to Iceland by Norwegian Vikings in the ninth century AD. The horses were totally isolated for over 1,000 years, and not until the 1940's were the first ones allowed out of the country. The United States is now home to only about 3,000 purebred Icelandics, and the largest and most significant concentration of these horses is in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Elisabeth Haug, owner of 150 Icelandics at The Viking Saga Ranch in Buellton, has raised them for 32 years and is the largest breeder in the country. Originally from Denmark, she moved to California in 1978 with 37 horses, and was soon drawn to the Valley: "It's the nicest place in the world for Icelandic Horses." Many people think the Icelandic Horse belongs to Solvang, she notes, because of the historical connection between Denmark and Iceland. "It's The Viking Horse," she says. Haug still has some of her original horses, explaining that Icelandic Horses live longer than other breeds. "My oldest lived to be 46, and the oldest in history lived to be 57 in Iceland."

About 300 Icelandic Horses live in the Valley, owned by breeders and individuals for pleasure riding, jumping, dressage, endurance, cross country, and for the joy they bring. Icelandics have special qualities that set them apart from other horses. They grow long coats and impossibly thick manes and tails. Smaller than many breeds, they stand only 12 to 14 hands tall and weigh about 800 pounds, yet they are known for their tremendous strength and stamina. They can pull 1.6 times more than most other horses and can easily carry a heavy adult or load of 300 pounds or more for hours. "It's because of their lower center of gravity and stronger bones," says Elisabeth Haug.

Solvang attorney John Parke is an endurance rider, and is justifiably proud of his Icelandics. Last summer, he rode in the Pony Express Endurance Race, a grueling 2,000-mile 40-day trip along the original Pony Express route from Missouri to California. Icelandic Horses are not a breed commonly entered in this race, but John proved how incredibly tough they really are. "Many horses were disqualified along the way due to lameness," Parke says, "and only five out of 300 were able to cover more than 1,000 miles." His Icelandic Horse Skjoldur, the smallest in the race, won second place after accumulating an astonishing 1,600 miles. This feat has propelled the little horse into the big league of endurance competition, and is causing many horse experts to take notice.

It's no surprise that an Icelandic Horse would shine in an endurance race. Early Nordic settlers found Iceland a harsh place of fire and ice, and their rugged horses were essential to their survival. No roads traversed the rocky terrain, but their sure-footed mounts carried riders and goods reliably over long distances, often in bitter weather. Horses that exhibited the greatest intelligence, strength, bravery, and hardiness were treasured and bred. Therefore, the qualities most valued by the Icelanders are those that today make this horse so unique.

Icelandic history is richly interwoven with tales of this revered animal, documented in literature dating back to the 12th century. Since 1100 AD, the import of any horse has been strictly forbidden, thus the breed has remained pure in Iceland. Over the generations, certain traits have emerged: Icelandic Horses evolved without natural predators, so they tend to be calm and don't exhibit the "startle" response of other horses. Raised in herds, they are highly gregarious, independent, and very relaxed in close proximity to other horses and people.

Easy-going, dependable horses are a necessity at the Santa Ynez Valley Therapeutic Riding Program, where children with disabilities are given special lessons on horseback. Solvang psychologist Dr. Mary Ann Evans, founder of the program, has put her students on Icelandic Horses for nine years. She appreciates the breed's affectionate nature, smooth stride, and small size. "They're like furry teddy bears," she says, "and the kids love them."

Icelandic Horses are famous for their five natural gaits. In addition to the familiar walk, trot and canter, they display the unique Tolt. Like a running walk, its four-beat lateral movement is very smooth for the rider, who can carry a full mug of beer without spilling a drop. The Flying Pace, while not exhibited by every Icelandic Horse, is a racing gait faster than a gallop, with both legs on each side moving simultaneously. The Flying Pace is powerful and exhilarating to ride, and according to the United States Icelandic Horse Congress (USIHC), "The Icelandic Horse is the only breed in the world that performs this distinctive gait."

Formed in 1987 and run by volunteers, the USIHC is the only organization in the country with the authority to govern the breeding, registry and competition of Icelandics outside Iceland, under the mandate of the International Federation of Icelandic Horse Associations. Santa Ynez is home to the only USIHC registrar in the U.S.

One of the founding members of the USIHC, Santa Ynez resident Susan Green has owned Icelandics for over twenty years, and is very knowledgeable and passionate about them. She's had lots of experience with different breeds, but became captivated when she first encountered Icelandic Horses. "They have the most wonderful, endearing personalities," she says, "They're like big dogs that just want to be with you." On trail rides, she enjoys having the choice of the Icelandic's several gaits. "Over smooth ground, the horse will go into a running walk," Green says. "It's extremely easy on the rider, and you can go for miles and miles and not get sore."

Green enthusiastically describes her three vacations and mountain treks on horseback in Iceland. "You take lots of extra horses and they run right alongside you," she says. "It was thrilling - you feel like you're part of nature, riding in a herd through this incredible wilderness." She hadn't really intended to buy horses on these trips. "But when you're in Iceland, you can't leave without a horse," she laughs. "Or two." She currently owns four, all imported directly from Iceland.

Originally from New York, Green and her husband moved to the Santa Ynez Valley in 1994, largely because of the concentration of Icelandic Horses here. "That was the clincher that made us realize this was where we wanted to spend the rest of our lives," she smiles. "Our horses led us here."

For additional information on Icelandic Horses Log onto the USIHC website at www.icelandics.org